Tag archive for Meyer lemon

Preserving Meyer lemons

lemon

The winter months aren’t often thought of as big preserving months. Maybe preserving your own sanity through the cold and grey months is enough! And when it comes to saving the season, I don’t have much to save. Except for this year when I couldn’t quite seem to get enough of the Meyer lemon. I’ve been using them in cocktails, zesting and juicing them into salad dressings and pretty much any other dish that could use a bit of bright flavor. Not to mention that a pretty bowl of them on the kitchen counter couldn’t look more sunny if they tried!

But Meyer lemons definitely have a season around here, unless you are one of those lucky people with a tree in the greenhouse or a shrub at your front door step, ahem. So when I found a short video posted on Food 52 with a quick glance at how they were preserving lemons, I was hooked. I headed down to the grocery store and picked up a bursting bag of Meyer lemons. I think the check out girl may have looked at me a little funny. Then it was off to the kitchen supply store for another oversize jar. I like the old school ones with wire bale closures. I do have a few, but as it turns out, they are full of kimchi!

spices

My favorite taste of preserved lemon came at the Marché des Enfants Rouges in Paris. The late autumn afternoon was filled with a strong, cold wind. The clouds hung dark with rain and off in the distance, I heard the rumble of thunder. As we entered the market, the downpour began. We huddled by the glass display counter, filled with platters piled high with delicious offerings—tagines, salads, couscous and breads. On the counter just behind stood shining stacks of ornate tea glasses. Nearby, a grey-haired man poured glasses of fragrant mint tea. We ordered and the waiter hurried our food off to a sheltered table just under the eaves of the building. All around, the rain rushed and splashed. But the vegetable tagine, enjoyed from a rough earthenware bowl, sparkled with the bright flavors of lemon and green olive. Fingers curled around the burning hot glass of tea, a downpour couldn’t have come at a better moment.

prep table

Thinking back, I don’t know why I didn’t rush home to try some preserved lemon in my own cooking. Maybe that memory was enough to last me for a little while. Or maybe it was the mint tea binge that ensued when I returned home and completely captured my attention for months. But now that I’ve returned to that lemony flavor, I can’t wait for all of that salt and some time to work their magic on those lemons. In the meantime, I’ve been dreaming of pairing that deep lemon essence with spring-fresh asparagus when it finally arrives in from the fields, or maybe even brightening up a potato salad or deviled egg filling.

As I read through the comments following up on the Food 52 post, I found suggestions of using the lemony brine to flavor martinis and salad dressing. Genius, I’m guessing! I can’t wait to try a little dash with some sautéed spring peas or to season a simple sauce for pasta. I also found reference to a Paula Wolfert recipe for preserved lemons, which includes a handful of spices in with the brine—cinnamon, cloves, pepper and bay leaves. And I can attest that hanging my head over a jar filled with lemons and topped with those spices was intoxicating.

jar
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This is not so much a recipe as an idea to get started you started. It also doesn’t matter so much what size jar you use. The biggest one you have, or just plain old mason jars should do the trick. The main matter is how many lemons you want to get you through until next season. I made two jars…

jars

Preserved Meyer lemons

Meyer lemons, organic, if possible, scrubbed
Kosher salt
Spices, 3 to 4 pieces black peppercorn, pink peppercorn and cloves; 1 cinnamon stick and 2 fresh bay leaves, if desired
Sterilized jar

Cover the bottom of the jar with a layer of kosher salt. Working one at a time, trim the top off the lemon, cutting into quarters length-wise. Don’t cut all the way through the lemon so the quarters remain attached. Carefully pull apart the quarters and generously sprinkle with kosher salt. Press the lemon back together and place in the jar. As the lemons accumulate, gently press them down with your hand to release the juice and allow for more room in the jar. Continue until the jar is almost full. I got about 14 lemons in my 1½ liter jar. Top the lemons with spices, if using. If there is not enough juice to cover the lemons, squeeze another lemon or two to fill the jar.

Cover and let sit in a cool, dark spot. Within the first couple of days, open the jar once or twice during the day to release pressure from the fermenting process. Sealed tightly, turn the jar over once a day or so to allow the salt to mix well.

Let the lemons ferment at room temperature for three to four weeks, then place in the refrigerator, where they can keep for months. Before storing, remove the spices, as they may get bitter with time. Just be sure to use clean utensils when retrieving the fruit from the jar.

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Sharing the kitchen

syrup

For me, the best gatherings happen in the kitchen—food preparation in full swing, maybe a little snack or something to sip on, all the while chatting with friends or family. The meal comes together at a leisurely place, but the time spent preparing and enjoying it together is the event itself. These are the cooking moments that I hang some of my best food memories around.

glasses

One of my favorite “cooking as the event” moments happened in Paris with my sister. Since when does an evening cooking dinner in a tiny rented kitchen upstage an afternoon wandering the avenues of Paris, right? It was years ago, but I still remember the deep pleasure of shopping for our dinner items at the market, deciding what suited our mood for the evening, then negotiating with the market vendor on the exact specimens, according to our estimated meal time. Hauling our supplies up flights and flights of stairs to our apartment, deciding to while away the chilly evening hours in the kitchen. At some point, the hot steam coming from the pots bubbling on the stove fills up the tiny space forces us to throw open the window to the narrow courtyard that our building wraps around. Outside we hear the clatter and bustle of dinner coming together for everyone else in our building and we feel at ease.

board

Of course, not every meal is a magical Parisian memory. Most often, I enjoy the company of friends and family in my own kitchen where we partake in the age-old ritual of preparing and sharing a meal. It’s likely not a fancy meal, but nourishing and prepared with care—the very acts of chopping and dicing friendship at its best. And in these dark days of winter, it is something to look forward to. So in that celebratory spirit, I created this cocktail to share.

Meyer

Meyer lemons are a seasonal favorite of mine—but hording fresh fruit is only advisable when there is a good use for it in sight. This cocktail proves to be a delicious way to highlight the sweet and pronounced flavor of the lemon.

Meyer’s Refresher

Serves 2
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3 oz. Meyer lemon juice
3 oz. gin
4 dashes grapefruit bitters
Scant 2 teaspoons rosemary simple syrup, recipe follows
Sparkling wine or cava, to finish

Combine all ingredients and shake over ice. Pour into two small glasses, add ice and top with sparkling wine. Garnish with a slice of Meyer lemon.

Rosemary Syrup

Makes 1 cup

1 cup white sugar
1 cup water
1 cup fresh rosemary sprigs
peel of one Meyer lemon

Combine water and sugar in a small sauce pan and bring to a boil. Allow to boil for about 5 minutes, until all of the sugar is dissolved. Add in the rosemary and lemon peel and stir to incorporate. Remove from heat and let steep for at least 30 minutes to 1 hour. Remove peel and rosemary and store in the fridge.

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